Indian Cuisine - Naan
Naan
History of Naan
History of Naan
The Naan originates from India but is
today eaten in most types of South Asian restaurants and homes around the
globe. It has transformed from a basic form of bread for many to experimental
creations by chefs and food enthusiasts today with different fillings and
flavours.
The first recorded history of Naan can
be found in the notes of the Indo-Persian poet Amir Kushrau in 1300 AD. Naan
was originally cooked at the Imperial Court in Delhi as naan-e-tunuk (light
bread) and naan-e-tanuri (cooked in a tandoor oven). During the Mughal era in
India from around 1526, Naan accompanied by keema or kebab was a popular
breakfast food of the royals.
In 1926, overlooking the hustle and
bustle of Regent Street, Veeraswamy, Britain’s oldest Indian restaurant served
Naan on its menu.
Founded in 1984, Honeytop Speciality
Foods became the first company in Europe to supply authentic Naan bread on a
commercial scale to major retailers and restaurants. They introduced the first
13 week shelf-life flatbread.
How to Make the Perfect Naan Bread
The naan, a word that just means bread in its original
Persian, is a flatbread native to west, central and southern Asia. It is baked
in a clay oven, rather than over a flame like the chapati, which gives it a
crisp exterior, a fluffy core and a distinctive charred flavour. Not being
blessed with either the space or the funds for a second oven, clay or not, I'd
long ago lumped naans in with pizzas as things that weren't worth attempting at
home. I've since changed my mind on the margherita front, particularly after a
revelatory moment earlier this year involving a frying pan and a hot grill, but
I was still wary of attempting a bread that had no toppings to hide behind.
Well, turns out I'm wrong - again.
The flour
Though one poster online assures the world that
"real naan has a mix of stoneground wheat flour (chakki atta) and white
flour", I don't find any recipes calling for this - instead, the
difference is between plain flour and higher protein bread flour. Most recipes
I try go for plain flour, but Madhur Jaffrey's Ultimate Curry Bible uses bread
flour, and Rick Stein's India sits on the fence with a 1:3 ratio of bread to
plain flour. Now, it is perfectly possible to make decent naan with plain flour
- Meera Sodha's Made in India does so - but the more naans I munch my way
through, the more I realise how important their characteristic chewy, elastic
texture is. A strong flour, with its higher gluten content, gives the best
chance of this.
Raising agent
Though they're flatbreads, naans traditionally get
their bubbly texture from yeast (and, very traditionally, from wild yeasts).
Some more modern variations, such as that in Vivek Singh's Curry, use baking
powder instead, with Jaffrey also adding extra bicarbonate of soda. Like
Stein's, the recipe in Charmaine Solomon's India and Pakistan volume of her
Complete Asian Cookbook uses yeast alone, while Sodha tops it up with baking
powder.
The benefit of Singh's baking powder is that I don't
need to leave the dough to prove for hours - after a mere 15 minutes under a
damp cloth, it is ready to shape. The snag is that, while it boasts a few
bubbles, the overall texture is more like a pitta bread. It is a decent-tasting
quick fix if you need flatbread in a hurry (an emergency that surely plagues us
all from time to time), but when it comes to texture, you can't beat yeast. The
extra baking powder doesn't seem necessary if you leave those microorganisms to
do their thing - especially as baking powder itself gets to work immediately,
and will thus presumably be spent by the time the dough is ready to bake.
Stein, Jaffrey, Singh and Sodha use milk to wet their
dough, with the first two adding yoghurt as well, and Stein and Solomon topping
it up with water. Milk, and dairy in general, will give the naan a soft, more
tender crumb than water alone, but I'm not sure you want to go too far down
that road, as you risk sacrificing that aforementioned chewy texture. A little
yoghurt for tang and richness, mixed with rather more water, seems a good
compromise. Solomon, Singh and Jaffrey also add egg to their doughs, which only
seems to make them tough. Some extra fat is welcome, though; Solomon adds ghee,
Jaffrey butter and Singh vegetable oil. Personally, I like the flavour of ghee,
but melted butter is a decent substitute.
Flavourings
Everyone adds salt and sugar to varying degrees - the
sugar helps the yeast to get to work, while the salt does the opposite but is
essential for flavour. More interesting are the toppings; though I avoided
garlic butter, on the basis that it would give the breads concerned a very
unfair advantage (what doesn't taste good smothered in garlic butter?), I did
allow Jaffrey her nigella and sesame seeds and Solomon her poppy ones. Pretty
as they all looked, nigella was the only seed to contribute much in the way of
flavour, so which you choose, if any, depends on what you're serving it with.
More important, I'd suggest, is a big dollop of melted ghee to finish, as
wisely counselled by Jaffrey.
Method and cooking
![]() |
Traditionally cooked in Tandoor |
The two big beasts here, the Michelin-starred Singh
and the legend that is Jaffrey, disagree on one fundamental point, possibly
connected with their choice of raising agent. While Jaffrey instructs you to
give the dough "100 strokes" with a wooden spoon to develop the
gluten, Singh cautions you to be careful "not to work the gluten too much,
or the dough will become stretchy". Stretchy is exactly what you want, in
my opinion, so kneading is a must. However, I must add that although a naan
dough ought to be soft and sticky, both Jaffrey and Stein's are so liquid I have
great difficulty kneading them at all, and end up having to add more flour to
both just to be able to get them back into the bowl. As with all doughs, do it
by feel: if the dough feels at all tough or dry, add more liquid; it should be
soft and irritatingly sticky.
Having established my kitchen is a tandoor-free zone,
cooking is necessarily going to be a compromise. I find the best way to
replicate the high heat and charred flavours is with a very, very hot dry pan -
Singh and Solomon's hot oven leaves them too stiff, more like a pizza crust.
You can finish them off under a very hot grill, as Jaffrey suggests, but I find
Sodha's pan method simpler and more effective. Use the oven to keep your
curries warm instead.
The perfect naan bread
(Makes 6-8)
1.5 tsp fast-action yeast
1 tsp sugar
150ml warm water
300g strong white bread flour, plus extra to dust
1 tsp salt
5 tbsp natural yoghur
2 tbsp melted ghee or butter, plus extra to brush
A little vegetable oil, to greas
1 tsp nigella (black onion), sesame or poppy seeds
(optional)
Put the yeast, sugar and two tablespoons of warm water
in a bowl and stir well. Leave until it begins to froth.
Put the flour and salt into a large mixing bowl and
whisk to combine. Stir the yoghurt into the yeast mixture, then make a well in
the middle of the flour and pour it in, plus the melted ghee. Mix, then
gradually stir in the water to make a soft, sticky mixture that is just firm
enough to call a dough, but not at all dry. Tip out on a lightly floured
surface and knead for about five minutes until smooth and a little less sticky,
then put in a large, lightly oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and leave in a
draught-free place (the airing cupboard, or an unlit oven) until doubled in
size: roughly 90-120 minutes.
Tip the dough back out on to the lightly floured
surface and knock the air out, then divide into eight balls (or six if you have
a particularly large frying pan). Meanwhile, heat a non-stick frying pan over a
very high heat for five minutes and put the oven on low. Prepare the melted
ghee and any seeds to garnish.
Flatten one of the balls and prod or roll it into a
flat circle, slightly thicker around the edge. Pick it up by the top to stretch
it slightly into a teardrop shape, then put it in the hot pan. When it starts
to bubble, turn it over and cook until the other side is browned in patches.
Turn it back over and cook until there are no doughy bits remaining.
Brush with melted ghee and sprinkle with seeds, if
using, and put in the oven to keep warm while you make the other breads.
Naan breads: worth making at
home without a tandoor, or are you better off buying them to go with your
homemade curries? Do you prefer a chapati or a paratha? And does anyone have a
good recipe for a classic stuffed naan: keema, peshwari or even something a
little more unusual
Naan Fact
o. Naan bread typically consists of dry yeast, all-purpose flour, warm water,
sugar, sal ghee and yogurt.
o. Naan is traditionally cooked in a tandoor, or clay oven.
Reference :
http://irrawsistible.com/naan-bread-history-facts/
http://food.ndtv.com/food-drinks/how-to-make-the-perfect-naan-bread-696193
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